It costs an attention-grabbing £13, but this toastie is a thing of wonder

CLICK HERE to read the complete review on-line at the Guardian/Observer.

Jay Rayner is the Observer's restaurant critic and a feature writer.

His most recent book is Wasted Calories and Ruined Nights. He keeps an archive of all his journalism at jayrayner.co.uk

Sophia Evans is a photographer for the Observer, click here to see more of her work.

Here's a link to The Wigmore, 15 Langham Place, London W1B 3DE (020 7965 0198).

How to make a Wigmore XXL Stovetop Cheese Toastie, watch this short video.

The classic Wigmore cheese toastie is made using the Netherton Foundry 5¾" (15.5 cm) traditional flat cast iron small cooking iron with British oak handle.

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The European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development: Europe investing in rural areas, has provided part funding for the Netherton Foundry high capacity seasoning kiln 2018.